Palatial hotels, giant neon signs, high-rolling gamblers and limousines parked outside opulent casinos – some would say Macau is defined by excess. It’s the Las Vegas of the East, a place where the rich Chinese, in particular, come to indulge their vices. But where America’s Sin City is all glitz, there is considerable substance behind Macau’s glitter. On the mainland, just across the water from the island of Taipa where most of the casinos are located, the Macau Peninsula exhibits a beguiling amalgam of traditional Chinese and Portuguese cultures.
Photos: Ronan O’Connell
It is in this area where visitors can get a true sense of Macau’s identity and the stories which unfolded here generations before it became the world’s biggest gambling hub.
Wandering through narrow alleyways and cute squares past stately colonial mansions, grand churches, ageing Chinese shophouses and serene Taoist temples, you feel like you are ensconced in the city’s fascinating past.
UNESCO World Heritage
This area has become known as the “Historic Centre of Macau” and has been well preserved, which helped it earn UNESCO World Heritage status in 2005.
St Dominic’s Church
While Macau now generates a massive amount of revenue for China, it once was a modest fishing and port town known as Ou Mun which translates as “Trading Gate”.
Its strategic location at the mouth of the Pearl River, which leads inland to the thriving metropolis of Canton (now known as Guangzhou), meant it was visited by trading boats from all over the world.
The Portuguese made it one of their key Asian ports in the 1550s and conducted a huge amount of trade through Macau. They had administrative control over the area from the mid-16th century until 1999, when it was handed back to China, and left behind beautiful buildings like the 16th-century Baroque church, St Dominic’s.
Colonial charm
Impressive colonial-style administrative offices are strewn throughout the historic part of Macau, reflective of the era during which the Portuguese had control over the region.
The Macau Government Headquarters, pictured here, is the office of Macau’s Chief Executive. Constructed in 1849, the elegant pink-and-white building was designed using the famous Pombaline style of Portuguese architecture commonly seen in the oldest parts of Lisbon and Porto. It has been well preserved, as have many of the most significant Portuguese structures in Macau.
St Lawrence’s Church
The architect responsible for the Macau Government Headquarters building, Tomas de Aquino, also designed the neo-classical St Lawrence’s. It is one of the three oldest churches in Macau.
Before Macau’s skyline started to grow, this church had a clear view of the harbour and Portuguese families would gather there to wait for sailors to return from the sea.
This church is one of more than 20 timeworn monuments which comprise the UNESCO listed area including squares, temples, residences, fortresses and theatres.
Green spaces
St Francisco Garden
The European influence on Macau’s peninsula is evident in the beautiful St Francisco Garden. This intimate green space unfurls down a hill a few hundred metres behind the Wynn Macau Casino.
Shaded beneath a dense tree canopy, the park’s ornate fences and grand fountain evoke the bold designs of many public spaces in Portugal.
It is particularly interesting in the early morning and in the evening, when locals gather to exercise, sing, dance in groups, or practice water calligraphy on its pavement.
Public space
The most significant public space in Macau is one of its icons – Senado Square, pictured here. This large square, which is actually triangular in shape, was a social hub as far back as the late 16th century, and now is a meeting place for locals and tourists.
Foreign visitors flock to this spot, at the heart of Macau’s historic precinct, to take photos standing on its unusual, wave-patterned pavement in front of the classical Portuguese-style buildings which surround it.
Chinese temples
Macau is, of course, a Chinese city and as such it is littered with wonderfully atmospheric temples, including the A-Ma Temple, pictured here. This is one of the three main temples protected under the UNESCO listing, along with Kuan Tai and Na Cha Temples.
Kuan Tai is located in a small backstreet right near Senado Square and its traditional Chinese architecture contrasts with the Western buildings in this area, symbolising the way in which varied cultures existed peacefully in Macau for centuries.
Macau’s Chinese temples are open to the public, who are free to wander the grounds and admire their faded grandeur. Incense smoke drifts through these religious structures as locals kneel in silent prayer and leave offerings to the Gods.
The interiors of Macau’s temples are particularly interesting, with intricately-carved woodwork, impressive statues and bright colours throughout.
The peace they offer can be a reprieve from the noise and crowds of the streets of Macau, which is one of the world’s most densely populated urban areas.
Perhaps the most peaceful part of Macau’s historic precinct is at its southern end, where you will find the city’s oldest temple, A-Ma.
The most important temple in Macau, it was built in 1488 before the city was formed. Along the rock cliff behind the temple are a series of ancient inscriptions of classical Chinese poetry.
Its slightly out-of-the-way location ensure A-Ma is less busy and boisterous than Kuan Tai temple, preserving some of the quiet and order that can make religious sites so joyful.
A Ma Temple
Just north of A-Ma temple is another of Macau’s key tourist attractions, Mandarin’s House. Built about 150 years ago, the huge residential complex was the home of a revered Chinese writer, Zheng Guanying.
Tourists can inspect most of the 4000sqm building, which is predominantly Chinese in style but which incorporates some elements of Western architecture, such as its decorative motifs. Its courtyards, overlooked by large windows, are especially attractive and a nice place to take a rest.
North beyond Senado Square, the former Red Light district of Rua de Felicidade is one of the liveliest areas of the historical precinct. With its weathered Chinese shophouses, their doors and windows painted bright red, this area has a unique appearance.
Having long shed off its seedy past, Rua de Felicidade now is punctuated by small Chinese restaurants, several of which specialise in seafood, including the infamous delicacy Shark Fin Soup. The Roasted Duck in this neighbourhood is spectacular, making it a perfect spot to have dinner and end your day exploring the Historic Centre of Macau.
Ronan O’Connell visited Macau at his own expense.
Discover Macau
For more Macau attractions and information about visiting Macau see www.visitmacau.com.au
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